Don’t let anyone tell you being a fry cook isn’t a noble calling. Especially when frying seafood, where the margin between perfectly done and overcooked is measured in seconds. Belle Isle Seafood — essentially a waterfront warehouse with views of arriving flights at Logan International Airport — has clearly battered and deep-fried many tons of haddock, scallops and onion rings. A plate of fried pick-your-protein will arrive oversized, with an ideal combination of nongreasy and satisfyingly crisp. For the fried-averse, the lobster pie is fabulous but hardly more calorically advisable: a half-pound of lobster meat topped with breadcrumbs and butter and baked until golden, a direct line to the pleasure centers of the brain. KEVIN PANG

1 Main Street, Winthrop; 617-567-1619; belleisleseafood.net